West Maui  South Maui  Central Maui  East Maui  Upcountry Maui

 

WEST MAUI

 

Up near the northwest tip of West Maui you will find the small communities of Kapalua and Kahana, tucked in among five spectacular bays along a dramatic lava coastline (Kapalua means "arms embracing the sea"). Here you will find luxury hotels and condos, award-winning tennis complexes, historic sites, and golf courses which are actually Certified Audubon Cooperative Sanctuaries! Nearby, specifically at Honolua Bay, you can get in some of the best snorkeling in the world during the summer months.
There is an airport at Kapalua, which is available only for inter-island flights; this means that if you fly first to Honolulu you can connect to a flight that will land you right there. Direct flights from the Mainland arrive at the main airport at Kahului in Central Maui. Further south, the perfect 3-mile stretch of golden sand that is Ka'anapali Beach (pictured above) was a playground for the Hawai'ian ali'i (royalty) in ancient times. Today, it is the playground for the rest of us --and sometimes royalty still comes here, too. Opened in 1962, Ka'anapali was the first master-planned resort destination in the world, and was the model used for other such resorts all over the world. Currently, it covers 1,200 acres with 10 hotels and condominiums providing over 4,000 rooms, more than 40 tennis courts, two championship golf courses and half a dozen residential areas. This is also where you will find the famous Whalers Village, a nifty little complex offering several restaurants and hula shows as well as shopping; the Pacific Whale Museum, a fun and fascinating interactive display of the humpback whales, Maui's most famous winter residents; and lots and lots of things to do. Another feature of Ka'anapali is the Lahaina, Ka'anapali and Pacific Railroad. Referred to as the Sugar Cane Train, it travels between Lahaina and Ka'anapali. The train once moved sugar cane from the fields of Ka'anapali to the Pioneer Mill in Lahaina. Today it caters to the tourism industry with a scenic ride and a trip back into time. In the middle of Ka'anapali is Black Rock, or Pu'u Keka'a, a sacred location to ancient Hawaiians. They considered it to be a place where spirits of the dead leaped from this world to the next. Black Rock today actually separates two major stretches of beach front. North Beach is the least developed with the Embassy Suites resort sitting at the furthermost northern end and the Royal Lahaina at the south end. South Beach is the most developed of this destination. Both North and South beach are great walking beaches and if you don't like walking in the sand, South Beach has a sidewalk that stretches from one end, starting at the Hyatt Regency and goes all the way to the Sheraton at Black Rock. The jewel of West Maui, of course, is historic little Lahaina, just a few miles south of Ka'anapali. Many of the buildings here date back to the 1800's, and there is a restriction that all new buildings must resemble those built before 1920. This preserves the flavor of the old town, and prevents it from becoming an unsightly hodgepodge of unrelated architectural styles. Designated a National Historic District in 1962, its famous Front Street runs for about a mile along the harbor front and is loaded with restaurants, souvenir shops, art galleries and t-shirt stores. It's a must stop on your tour of Maui. The Lahaina harbor, along with the harbor south of there in Ma'alaea, is the center for most ocean activities including whale watching, fishing, snorkeling trips and more. The biggest living thing on Maui is the Banyan Tree in Lahaina. As you approach the tree you think you are seeing a park full of trees, but it is all one REALLY BIG TREE. Brought in from India in 1873 when it was only 8 feet tall and had only one trunk, it is now over 50 feet tall, has 12 major trunks, and covers 2/3 of an acre. On Saturdays local artists show their works under the tree, and on a hot day this is the best place to get out of the sun and loll around in the shade with a shave ice. South of Lahaina, around the curve of West Maui to the east, is Ma'alaea. This town's greatest claim to fame is the magnificent harbor there, which provides mooring for a large number of boats and is the jump off place for many charters. Fishing, sunset cruises, snorkeling, diving-- they can all be accessed from this harbor. This is a lovely area with a real country feel to it. Make friends with your captain, and you might get invited home for dinner. West Maui is just that kind of place.

 

 West Maui  South Maui  Central Maui  East Maui  Upcountry Maui

 

SOUTH MAUI

 

South Maui is generally considered to be the Kihei, Wailea, and Makena areas of Maui. (Most of the true south shore is not easily accessible, having neither roads, populations nor communities.) The build-up of the south end of Maui began seriously in the 1970's, with construction only letting up within the last few years with the completion of the Grand Wailea and Four Seasons Resort. Nevertheless, it remains a low key and charming area, especially so as you get down around Makena (pictured above). West Maui | Central Maui | East Maui | Upcountry The ocean here literally sparkles with sailboats, windsurfers and other water activities, and the entire coast is an excellent place to watch whales in the winter. Kihei is the main destination in South Maui. Over the past few years it has gone from a reasonably quiet and sleepy town to a bustling tourist community. Kihei lacks the history and prestige of Lahaina, but in many respects the two towns are very similar. Both are long and narrow, hugging the shore in a semi-arid environment. It is sunny most of the year, with rainfall averaging less than 20 inches a year. Kihei is the location of more than one third of the hotels and resorts on the South side of Maui, most of these being situated around the Kamaole Beaches, I, II and III. There are abundant facilities, with excellent shopping, parking, restaurants, and activities available nearby. Wailea, a resort community situated between Kihei and Makena, is well developed but there are still many wonderful beaches and shoreline areas to explore. The nice thing about Wailea is that the beaches are very close to specific resorts and facilities and they have more life guards, showers, and restrooms available than in most other areas. There are also wonderful tennis facilities and an excellent golf course here. This area is a bit more laid back than Kihei; the beaches and the surrounding resort grounds are usually quiet with little crowding. This is where you'll find Wailea and Polo Beaches. A few miles further south, the Makena area has one of the most beautiful shorelines in South Maui. It is also home to a world-class golf course (which is a favorite with Maui residents) and some of the major resorts on Maui. Beyond Makena the road dead ends at a vast old black lava flow. You can explore one of the more remote areas of Maui (the La Perouse Bay area) on foot from here, but this is the end of the road for the South side. Makena also boasts one of the last large undeveloped beaches on Maui, Makena Beach (Big Beach-picture) and one of the most picturesque beaches on Maui, Little Beach (which is also an unofficial clothing optional beach). There is wonderful diving, kayaking, and snorkeling off any beach in Makena; most of these beaches do not have hotels around them and are very clean and peaceful. All in all, South Maui can be as glitzy or as laid back as you want. You call it.

 

 West Maui  South Maui  Central Maui  East Maui  Upcountry Maui

 

CENTRAL MAUI

 

Central Maui (sometimes also called North Maui) encompasses a very large area. The major cities are the twin cities of Wailuku and Kahului, with little Pa'ia further south along the road to Hana. You will drive through the flat central plain of Central Maui on your way from the airport at Kahului to your resort on the leeward side of the island. West Maui | South Maui | East Maui | Upcountry The north shore is generally windier and wetter than the South and West Sides, so the activities are somewhat different. Surfing and wind surfing are prevalent here and there are fewer resorts (no timeshare resorts), as the weather is often somewhat cloudy and damp. There are very few snorkel, boating, or water tours on the north shore, but you will find it perfect for drive tours, day hikes, and shopping. In spite of its location on the north shore of Maui, Kahului generally registers the highest temperatures on the Island. This is the heart of Maui, and the only deep water port for the Island. This is where the major cruise ships and container ships come in, and the main airport is also here. Most likely, this is where you'll land when you come to Maui; unfortunately, most visitors never take the opportunity to explore this little city. It has a great deal to offer, with great variety in shopping and services, but lacks the variety of fine restaurants that Lahaina has (though some of the local dining favorites can be found here). The closest golf course is in Waihe'e. There are three major malls, the largest being the newly renovated Ka'ahumanu Mall. Wailuku, just to the west of Kahului, is Maui's county seat. Most of the county, state, and federal government offices are located here, and it's a very "local" area. Many of the businesses in town are "mom-and-pop" operations that have been run by the same families for generations. There are few large restaurants in Wailuku, but some of the best smaller restaurants on the island are located there, along with a wonderful collection of small art galleries, antique shops, and unique stores. Wailuku has some historical locations of interest, with the architecture of the buildings being a testament to their age. The Bailey House Museum and the Ka'ahumanu Church will take you back 150 years to the days when missionaries walked Wailuku's streets. Ten minutes from Wailuku is Iao Valley Park, a wonderful place that only takes a few hours to completely explore. Here you can visit the Iao Needle (pictured above), possibly the most photographed feature on Maui, or check out the cultural park with its ethnic housing displays. Pa'ia is a small, quiet community most noted for its surfing and wind surfing, and is the last stop to gas up if you're going on to Hana. Be smart and top off your tank here. This peaceful town has some very good places to eat (try breakfast at Charlie's, or lunch at Picnic's) and some unique shopping. Some of the healthiest and tastiest vegetables to be had on the island come from Mana Foods and you can pick some up while you're in Pa'ia if you're so inclined. There are two main beaches near Pa'ia, Baldwin and Ho'okipa, both of which are wonderful for picnicking or watching the surfers, but the water is too rough and it's too windy for swimming or snorkeling. There are also several places with deep religious significance in this area, so keep an eye out and treat them with respect. Central Maui is not likely the place where you will spend a lot of your vacation. Visitors mostly just pass through on their way to somewhere else. So be different. Give it a look-see. It'll be fun!

 

 West Maui  South Maui  Central Maui  East Maui  Upcountry Maui

 

EAST MAUI

 

East Maui is probably the last really wild place on Maui. This is where you will find the beautiful rain forests and waterfalls. Most of the coastline is rugged and very steep, and there are very few beaches on this side. NOTE: It is not a good idea to wander too close to the edge of some of these drop-offs, as the vegetation-- which looks solid enough-- can suddenly give away and give you an unpleasant drop to the bottom. There are wonderful hiking trails with beautiful scenery along the way to Hana, places to pull over to take a swim in a mountain pool, and an arboretum with exotic trees and plants in a living display. On the far side of Hana is the Kipahulu Church (where you can contemplate life at the grave of Charles Lindbergh-story). Hana is a small rural town where the general lifestyle hasn't changed much for the past 40 years. It is as much a state of mind as it is a place, and it is considered "the most Hawaiian" area of Maui. Getting to Hana is half the fun-- or not, depending on how much you like to drive. The Road to Hana is famous for its twists and turns (more than 600 hairpin turns with several one-lane bridges to negotiate as well), and waterfalls. Only 52 miles from Kahului, expect the trip to take a full 3 hours or more. And don't forget that you'll also have to drive back. (The only other way to get there is by helicopter.) A lot of people consider the trip to be well worth the effort, though; some of the most beautiful back-country in the world is here, a few areas are so rugged that they're accessible only by helicopter. There are plenty of trails for hiking along the way, although there are very few 'facilities' available. A significant amount of land between Hana and Haleakala summit is in the form of protected national parks with habitat so fragile that no one is allowed to use it. As you approach Hana, about a mile outside of town, there are nurseries that double as botanical gardens, and a wonderful beach, Wai'anapanapa (picture). Wai'anapanapa Park has a beautiful black sand beach with sculpted rocks and caves along the shore. This is a great place to picnic or camp. Hana itself is a charming little town on a lovely, rounded bay. Flowers blaze in profusion everywhere you look, and were it not for the modern amenities you would feel that you were the first person to set foot on its shores. It just has that kind of feel about it. Once you enter Hana, the lower road takes you to the bay and pier, the upper road takes you to Hana Ranch and the Hotel Hana Maui (not timeshare, unfortunately. At least, not yet...) with its magnificent grounds and views. There are a few other features of Hana worth seeing. There is the famous Hasagawa's General Store, Hana Cultural Center, Hana Ranch, and the birthplace (a cave) of Queen Ka'ahumanu. It's just a wonderful and relaxing place for wandering around. Hawaiians consider this area to be full of mana (spiritual power), and they may be right. Perhaps that's why they call it "Heavenly Hana"...

 

 West Maui  South Maui  Central Maui  East Maui  Upcountry Maui

 

UPCOUNTRY MAUI

 

There is beginning to be a quiet exodus going on in Maui. Many kama'aina (long time residents) who have long lived in West or South Maui are quietly packing up and moving to the northern slopes of Haleakala, or Upcountry Maui. With not a beach or a resort in sight, and few of the amenities which are available in the more populated areas, you might ask yourself why. Well, the picture above is part of the reason. Full of narrow two-lane roads that wind precipitously over deep gulches and past pasture lands dotted with horses and cattle, Upcountry is where the kama'aina are finding their precious "elbow room" and the peace and quiet they crave. A long, easy drive through Kula, the farming district, will delight you with fields of flowers in bloom, small ranches tucked up against the hillsides, and little farms that grow the famous Maui onions-- the sweetest onions in the world. Eventually you will come upon the 20,000-acre 'Ulupalakua Ranch with its wide-open pastures, a fabulous little general store, and the Tedeschi Vineyards. The tasting room at this winery is a must-do, and it makes a great turning-around point in your day of exploring. The little town of Makawao (Hawaiian for "where the forest begins"), resting in the heart of Upcountry, is worth a long stop. Full of charming little shops, art galleries and unique eateries, it has an Old West look and feel that testifies to its colorful history. You can find treasures to take home that are found nowhere else on the Island. Nestled among the hills along the road to Haleakala National Park, this is where the pineapple fields cease and tall eucalyptus and jacaranda trees shade Maui's green pastures; where the first paniolos (cowboys) set up home in the early 20's when cattle were first introduced to the Island. Today Makawao reflects the eclectic nature of Maui's community. The buildings could be used for a Hollywood western movie set and it's not unusual for traffic to be slowed down by horses and riders in full rodeo attire. On the 4th of July weekend, this is where Maui County holds its yearly parade, and the local Roping Club hosts the biggest rodeo of the year in Hawai'i. But more and more, Makawao reflects the multi-cultural origin of the latest immigrants to the island: artists and musicians, Europeans and new-agers. One of the best and most renowned Italian restaurants in the State shares the town's only crossroad with a Mexican tavern. A major holistic health center shares the sidewalk with one of the most intriguing galleries exclusively devoted to Maui's artists' crafts and artwork. But what makes a visit to Makawao a must is the people you'll meet in its eateries and stores: Maui's community tending to its day-by-day business. You may drive through the winding roads of Upcountry Maui and fall in love with some of the most romantic residences in Maui, nestled between eucalyptus trees or overlooking a horse pasture of rare beauty (drive slow, peacocks and ducks are crossing!). Only a mile and a half off the highway to the Haleakala Crater (#37) and six miles from the road to Hana (#36), Makawao is what makes Maui a paradise to live in. You might be tempted to move in as well! Upcountry is not the place to go for the usual excitement. There are no water activities, no big shopping malls, no professional hula shows and lu'aus. Just beauty, peace, and people who are willing to like you. Perhaps that's reason enough to go there.